If one dish has taken over Calgary's halal group dinners in the last few years, it is mandi: meat slow-roasted until it slides off the bone, laid over long-grain rice perfumed with the drippings, served on a platter meant for the middle of the table. It is Yemeni by origin, Hyderabadi by adoption, and very much this city's current obsession.

The Yemeni originals

Taste of Yemen on 17 Ave SW is the benchmark and the crowd's verdict says so — 4.7 across nearly 3,800 reviews for lamb and chicken mandi, with the complimentary soup that starts almost every Yemeni meal. Muslim-owned, halal throughout. House of Mandi in Rundle is the NE answer, known equally for its mandi and its community iftar buffets in Ramadan — one practical note: trust the address on its own page here, as online directories have carried a wrong one.

The crossovers

Mandi long ago jumped into Hyderabadi kitchens, and Calgary's ride the same wave. Marhaba in Westwinds pairs fish mandi with its dum biryani (4.6 from 1,288); Hyderabad House in Royal Vista (4.7) and the 4.9-rated Hyderabad Biryani House in Sunridge both plate mandi beside the biryani that made their names. Where mandi ends and biryani begins is a debate for the table; our biryani guide takes the other side's case. On 16 Ave NW, Sallora covers the Middle Eastern register with chicken mandi and falafel at 4.3 across 1,500.

How to order it

Mandi is priced and portioned by the quarter, half or whole animal over rice — a half-lamb platter genuinely feeds four to five. Order one platter for the table rather than plates each; that is the format, and the point. Chicken mandi is the gentler entry, lamb is the reason the dish exists. Eat it with your hands if the table allows. It is the centrepiece of our group dining guide for a reason, and if the occasion calls for a buffet instead, the buffet guide has the all-you-can-eat version.

The short version

Taste of Yemen for the definitive platter, House of Mandi in the NE, Marhaba for fish mandi, either Hyderabad house when biryani loyalty runs in the family. Bring three friends and order the lamb.